Monday, August 28, 2006

King Carol I's summer residence, the Peles Castle took 39 years to complete its 160 rooms and 3500 square feet. More than 400 craftmen and thousands of laborers finished the castle only months before the king died. Ironically, it has not been lived in since his death in 1914.



Awaiting a guided tour (in groups of no more than 30), we wandered the landscaped grounds. Carol's wife and novelist, Elisabeta Carmen Silva rests on the grounds and is heavily guarded.



Unforunately, no photography is permitted on the brisk 30-minute guided tour of only 16 rooms. (Supposedly the stairs and floors are in poor condition not permitting access to the rest of the castle.) But after donning the required woolen slippers, we were little prepared for what was before our eyes! The Castle boasts highly detailed walnut carvings, European antiques, rich textiles, Murano glass chandeliers, elaborate furnishings in the Turkish smoking room, a Louis XIV room housing the theatre, and retractable oversized skylight over the Grand Hall with the Czech architect carved in wood and peering down from his perch on the massive column. With Rembrandt reproductions in the king's office, a secret escape passage in the library behind a stack of "books," a gallery of mirrors, the leather-clad dining room, fairytale images etched on stained glass windows in the poetry room, and 14 kinds of wood in the Council Room, we were both wandering awestruck! It was the first castle in Europe to have central heating and electricity.



During Ceausescu's time, the castle served as a private retreat for leading communists and statesmen from around the world. It is known that presidents Richard Nixon and Gerald Ford, Libyan leader Moamar Gaddafi and PLO leader Yasser Arafat were entertained here by Ceausescu.



Between 1947 and 1975, Peles Castle was not open to the public. Extensive renovations were completed in 1990.




Only a few meters away is the Pelisor Palace (1892). As it is known, Little Peles was built by King Carol for his nephew, Ferdinand and wife, Marie (who loathed Peles Castle and did not get along with Carol). The smaller palace was decorated in Marie's taste with an Art Nouveau style and furnishings imported from Vienna.



The nearby Folisor Hunting Lodge was built as the King's temporary residence while Peles was under construction. It also served as Ceausescu's private hunting lodge. Currently, the lodge is in the possession of the Romanian government and is closed to the public.



Our advice is to definitely arrive before 10 a.m. to secure parking and ensure no waiting lines for the guided tour. It will be a memorable visit - well worth the 5 USD (12 RON) – HSR & BGR

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